marryong event - first blush
well we found the weakest point in our robot
9v battery clips need tape when the batteries themselves arent secured.
also in the lessons learnt column something i noticed for the builders of other bots, you have to "stress relieve" your connections when you are going up against spinners.
now i dont know the KE of nicks bar but when it hits a bot i wouldnt be suprised if for a very short time the innards of your bot wernt pulling 200G's
that 50 gram wire from your motor to speed controller whatever will now weigh 10Kg, this makes a mess of most plugs and isnt so crash hot for solder joints.
basically what you have to do is where you have your wires coming into a plug/join you have to mechanically hold the wire behind the plug and use that to take the load.
our ring terminals seemed to work pretty well in that regard especially as more than once when we took it out of the ring some of the nuts had actually come undone slightly (which is why ring terminals kick soo much ass in my book lol, ok so they are a pain in the ass to work with in this high change environment but they sure are rugged) but it would have been better if we could have stress relieved them (lesson for Plan-C lol)
Also for the last half of our fights it seemed that we had lost forwad drive speed, the IBC/servo travel needs some tweaking, we could spin at full speed but full forward stick did basically bugger all. kinda neutered our, "suck basilisk into hitting the wall / sombody elses bot then attack him" plan.
on a good note though, perfect radio all day, no jitters, no nothing smooth controll from start to finish, all on one set of 9'v batteries so i'm well pleased with that. still might take that LED off though, it pulls about 1/3rd of the remaining current draw of the IBC.
bits it seems people want
FET switches, esp for basilisk lol. a fet switch for that would be smaller and lighter than that hugeass thing you had in there lol.
Temperature monitors, i'm just "spitballing" here but some kind of light/series of lights you can put on your bot to tell you when your motor/batteries are between "well done" or "carbonising as you watch"
adjustable trigger points, 2 levels of warning per sensor "hot" and "overtemp" say? should be fairly cheap, 2 sensor setup ~ $20-$25 possibly less with a source of high brightness cheap LED's
anybody interested?
OptoIsolation of the IBC
with us it seemed to *really* help with radio noise problems, doubled radio range even with the switchmode PSU in the IBC. Basically you plug the servo leads from the IBC into it and then it plugs into your Rx unit (which must run off batteries,(note you need the BEC of the IBC *on* to power its half of the opto)) $25 should cover that pretty easily
ToDo on Plan-B, grind out the delaminations and re-glass the damaged sections, all pretty straight forwad there, little more difficult on the front top where basilisk had a bit of a gentle gnawing, (if we bother fixing that part back to full thickness that is, its not structural out there and its just a bit of a pain to fill the corner back up.)
mount the battery eliminator eliminator batteries more securly than jamming them in behind the motor.
mount the opto isolators perhaps.
9v battery clips need tape when the batteries themselves arent secured.
also in the lessons learnt column something i noticed for the builders of other bots, you have to "stress relieve" your connections when you are going up against spinners.
now i dont know the KE of nicks bar but when it hits a bot i wouldnt be suprised if for a very short time the innards of your bot wernt pulling 200G's
that 50 gram wire from your motor to speed controller whatever will now weigh 10Kg, this makes a mess of most plugs and isnt so crash hot for solder joints.
basically what you have to do is where you have your wires coming into a plug/join you have to mechanically hold the wire behind the plug and use that to take the load.
our ring terminals seemed to work pretty well in that regard especially as more than once when we took it out of the ring some of the nuts had actually come undone slightly (which is why ring terminals kick soo much ass in my book lol, ok so they are a pain in the ass to work with in this high change environment but they sure are rugged) but it would have been better if we could have stress relieved them (lesson for Plan-C lol)
Also for the last half of our fights it seemed that we had lost forwad drive speed, the IBC/servo travel needs some tweaking, we could spin at full speed but full forward stick did basically bugger all. kinda neutered our, "suck basilisk into hitting the wall / sombody elses bot then attack him" plan.
on a good note though, perfect radio all day, no jitters, no nothing smooth controll from start to finish, all on one set of 9'v batteries so i'm well pleased with that. still might take that LED off though, it pulls about 1/3rd of the remaining current draw of the IBC.
bits it seems people want
FET switches, esp for basilisk lol. a fet switch for that would be smaller and lighter than that hugeass thing you had in there lol.
Temperature monitors, i'm just "spitballing" here but some kind of light/series of lights you can put on your bot to tell you when your motor/batteries are between "well done" or "carbonising as you watch"
adjustable trigger points, 2 levels of warning per sensor "hot" and "overtemp" say? should be fairly cheap, 2 sensor setup ~ $20-$25 possibly less with a source of high brightness cheap LED's
anybody interested?
OptoIsolation of the IBC
with us it seemed to *really* help with radio noise problems, doubled radio range even with the switchmode PSU in the IBC. Basically you plug the servo leads from the IBC into it and then it plugs into your Rx unit (which must run off batteries,(note you need the BEC of the IBC *on* to power its half of the opto)) $25 should cover that pretty easily
ToDo on Plan-B, grind out the delaminations and re-glass the damaged sections, all pretty straight forwad there, little more difficult on the front top where basilisk had a bit of a gentle gnawing, (if we bother fixing that part back to full thickness that is, its not structural out there and its just a bit of a pain to fill the corner back up.)
mount the battery eliminator eliminator batteries more securly than jamming them in behind the motor.
mount the opto isolators perhaps.
posted by Valen at 9:22 PM
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